Backpacking

Fiji – Kava, und alles ist taub

Kava ist das traditionelle Nationalgetränk auf den Fiji Islands. Es wirkt entspannend und ist ein wichtiger Teil des typischen Fiji Lifestyles. Früher wurden die Wurzeln der Kava-Pflanze von Jungfraün zerkaut und danach zu Pulver gemahlen – heute werden die Kava-Wurzeln immer noch zu Pulver zermahlen, nur die Jungfraün-Spucke wird aus Hygiene-Gründen ausgelassen :-) Das Pulver wird dann in ein Handtuch eingewickelt (ca. 50 Gramm) und in einer grossen Schale durch kneten & pressen in mehrere Liter Wasser aufgelöst und danach (nach dreimaligem Klatschen und einmaligem ‚Bula!‘ Rufen) aus einer Kokusnuss-Schale getrunken.

Wie wirkt es?
..hmm, nach vier bis fünf Schalen Kava stellt sich im Allgemeinen ein taubes Gefühl im kompletten Mundraum ein, was sich auch (hab ich selber nie erfahren, wurde mir aber berichtet) bei exzessivem Konsum auf die Arme & Beine ausdehnen kann. Es wirkt auf jeden Fall entspannend, man sitzt in einer grossen Runde um die grosse Kava-Schale, unterhält sich (oder klatscht zu irgendwelchen Liedern, die nur die Fijis verstehen) und trinkt von Zeit zu Zeit eine Kokusnuss-Schale Kava..

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Fiji – Schnorcheln mit Manta Rochen

Auf der zweiten Insel (Naviti) haben wir an einem atemberaubenden Schnorchel-Trip teilgenommen. Mit einem handelsüblichen nach-Diesel-stinkenden Motorboot sind wir zu einem flachen Riff gefahren, dort wurden dann mit Hilfe einer (ebenfalls handelsüblichen) nach-Fisch-stinkenden Dose Tunfisch Manta-Rochen angelockt. Es daürte keine 15 Minuten und die wirklich eindrucksvollen (3 Meter Spannweite!), geselligen Tiere waren an der Wasseroberfläche zu sehen. Ausgerüstet mit Flossen, Maske & Schnorchel sind wir den Manta-Rochen bestimmt 20 Minuten gefolgt, neben oder auch unter ihnen hergetaucht. Wirklich eindrucksvoll!:-)

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Fiji – Hiking again

Im Gegensatz zu Neuseeland, wo man vor Deutschen nirgends sicher ist, habe ich auf den Fiji Islands nur 2 Deutsche getroffen – dafür umso mehr Engländer. Es wimmelt dort quasi – was Reisende anbelangt – nus so von Briten und ich fand es zur Abwechslung mal ganz nett der einzige Deutsche unter Engländern zu sein. Sam, ein sehr angenehmer Zeitgenosse aus der Nähe von Bristol, habe ich auf meiner ersten Insel (Kuata) kennengelernt. Er ist zuvor auch in Neuseeland herumgereist & gewandert und war es daher – genau wie ich – noch gewohnt, nicht den ganzen Tag nur am Strand rumzuliegen. Kurzentschlossen haben wir uns – gegen die geld-witternde Empfehlung der Einheimischen (‚It’s too dangerous to hike up that mountain.. You need a guide! That costs only 20$..‘ alles klar!) – auf eigene Faust auf einen Trip zur Spitze des hächsten Berges der Yasawa-Islands gemacht. Der Aufstieg war – verglichen mit Hikes, die wir zuvor in mehreren Stunden in Neuseeland gemacht hatten – natürlich ein Kinderspiel und es war keinesfalls der von den Einheimischen empfohlene Führer notwendig..und die Aussicht auf Kuata (die Insel mit unserem Resort) war nicht zu verachten, siehe oben.

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Fiji – Palmen?

Das erste was dem mehr-oder-weniger aufmerksamen Beobachter wahrscheinlich bezüglich der lokalen Flora auffällt, sind die Kokussnuss-Palmen, die quasi überall zu finden sind..:-)

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Fiji – Von Insel zu Insel

Die Fiji Islands bestehen aus ca. 330 Inseln, von denen knapp 100 bewohnt sind. Nach Ende meines Semesters an der University of Auckland hab ich mich mit Pacific Airlines auf den 3stuelndigen Flug nach Fiji (liegt 2100km nord-oestlich von Neuseeland) gemacht und gleich nach Ankunft beschlossen, dass ich mich der Yasawa-Inselgruppe westlich der Hauptinsel Viti Levu widmen werde.. Eine uebersichtliche Karte der Fiji Islands – zur Verfuegung gestellt von meinem staendingen Begleiter, dem Reisefuehrer Lonely Planet befindet sich hier hier. Auf den einzelnen Inseln wohnt man in sogenannten Resorts, erhaelt 3 Mahlzeiten (selbstverstaendlich ausschliesslich typisch suedpazifische Nahrung – ich hab noch nie so viele Passionfruits, Kokusnuesse, Mangos, Reis mit keine-Ahnung-was-fuern-Fleisch-das-war und natuerlich Fisch gegessen..). Es gibt z.B. Inseln wie Beachcomber Island oder Southsea Island, die nur knapp 100 Meter lang und breit sind..verlaufen wird man sich dort gewiss nicht :-)

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New Zealand – A dangerous hike?

The Coromandel Peninsula is famous for one hiking track that nearly everybody who visits Coromandel does: The Pinnacles Track. This hike is not at all intense, it takes only 1,5hours (although guidebooks say 3hours..) up to the hut. From the hut to the pinnacles it takes approximately 1hour – and then you enjoy awesome views over the Coromandel Peninsula. We spend the night at this DOC hut and – after sleeping in – hiked up to the Pinnacles on the next morning(ehmm, at noon.. Actually this hike isn’t dangerous, as long as you don’t step off the cliffs *g* Just have a look – a false step off the cliffs would be really fatal!

The red something standing on one of this pinnacle is ME!

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New Zealand – Cathedral Cove

Although it was ‚high tide‘ we waded our way through the arch and entered Cathedral Cove (a sacred Maori Bay – normaly only accessible at ‚low tide‘) This rock was directly on the shore of Cathedral Cove..

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New Zealand – Waikawau

..actually I’m not quite sure if this was at Waikawau Bay – but the waves were great and the beach lovely :-) That’s me going for a quick swim..

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New Zealand – The northern tip of Coromandel

We arrived at Fletcher Bay on Friday laaaate at night. Actually the way to this most northern tip of Coromandel is best driven at night, because then you can easily see the oncoming traffic on those really narrow gravel roads! Fortunately there was no oncoming traffic on Friday night, just a lot of possums crossing the street (most possums even don’t leave the gravel road while cars approach – it seems like they want to be run over by cars..)

On the next morning we hiked the Coromandel Coastal Track from Fletcher Bay to Stony Bay, met some sheep and drove back south to look for some nice beaches & bays.

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New Zealand – Pancake rocks & blowholes

The most amazing and spectacular miracle of nature I’ve seen so far in Newzealand are the Blowholes in Punakaiki at night. Unfortunately we couldn’t take any pictures at night, but even pictures could not describe this experience! The blowholes are in a limestone landscape full of secret caves, streams that disappear and reappear via holes in the ground. The sea water surges into caverns below the rocks and squirts out those geyser-like blowholes that are beyond belief! The show is most spectacular at night – and luckily we even had fullmoon! :-) Meanwhile I had lost Chris, who was also heading towards the beach.. Well, I underestimated the distance to the beach and therefore gave up and returned (ca. one hour walking..) back to the car and met up with Chris.

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New Zealand – Rainforest in Milford

Hiking on one of Newzealand’s finest hiking tracks – the Milford Rainforest Track – normaly means: 4 days of sun and sandflies (that nearly eat you alive!) alternating with rain&wet clothes. As we hiked this track after the main season was finished, we didn’t have to pre-book it and therefore we could hike it in fewer days. (In the main season you can only book the track for 4 days with 3 fixed overnight stays at the huts!)
Luckily we also enjoyed mainly sunny weather, which is really unusual for this rain forest track! All in all we only had about 1hour of rain! The scenery we hiked through is really amazing, the flora is totally different from what we had seen before. We hiked through an amazing vegetation, which was surrounded by impressive mountains. As we reached the highest point of the track we enjoyed overwhelming views on the surrounding valleys & mountains. Having a small chocolate-break (yeah, that provides energy!) in this awesome scenery we also saw a kea. Keas are the world’s only alpine parrot! They are sometimes found in Newzealand’s alpine mountain areas, have green feathers & red wings(you can only see when they fly). On our way downhill we passed by many high waterfalls, wild streams & cold creeks with cristal-clear water. Although the water in all those creeks was freezing cold (it’s melted ice from the top of the mountain) we couldn’t resist the stupid temptation to go for a short swim. Well, we got butt-naked, jumped into the f***ing cold water and took a picture of us (thanks to the self-timer!). Unfortunately afterwards (we’ve already put on some of our clothes) we realized, that one of us didn’t look towards the camera :-(

Further downhill we walked over a suspension bridge and spontaneously decided that this bridge was the perfect location to jump off into the river. To exclude any risk we measured the height of the bridge (ca. 8 metres) and the depth of the river..

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New Zealand – Mountainbiking in Alexandra

Our guide book Lonely Planet describes the area arround Alexandra to be a ‚Heaven for Mountainbikers‘, therefore we decided to stop by to go for some up&downhill mountainbiking. We found a pretty good mountainbiking track which was located in a lovely mountainous area. It was real fun and the landscapes we cycled through were again overwhelming! Unfortunately some km before finishing the track some invisible pot-holes (or maybe there were some invisible rocks..) on the track kicked me off my bike and I smoothely landed (nice formulation..) on my left arm, waist & leg and rolled down the hill.. By the time I’m writing this, all injuries are gone!

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New Zealand – Rugby in Dunedin

The one thing Dunedin is famous for is definitely Rugby! Although we had no idea about the rules and didn’t know any of the rugby players – we put on yellow&blue face painting and headed to the rugby stadium. Actually the game wasn’t really that interesting (might have been due to us not-knowing-what-rugby-is-about *g*) but afterwards everybody ran onto the field, just to party or talk to the rugby players to get some autographs. The whole atmosphere before, during and after the rugby match was really awesome! Afterwards we followed those Dunedin fans into one of the famous after-game-bars called ‚The Bowler‘ – and the party went on. All in all I can say that attending a rugby game in Dunedin is real fun and definitely recommendable!

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New Zealand – Yellow eyed penguins

On the Otago Peninsula we asked some local guy how we could get to see some of those famous yellow-eyed penguins. We followed his description, crossed the peninsula on those windy and steep roads and after parking our car at an end-of-the-road ‚car park‘ we ended up walking ca. 45minutes through fields, bushes & sanddunes to get to the beach. Actually this was not the official way to see the penguins, but we only discovered this afterwards.
After this long walk to the beach at Sandfly Bay we finally saw some sealions and yellow-eyed penguins. Two sealions were totally busy with flirting, so they didn’t notice us taking pictures of them.

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New Zealand – Swimming with dolphins

The company Dolphin Encounter in Kaikoura offers boat trips along the shore of Kaikoura to visit dolphin schools. Dolphins usually race through the sea in large schools of hundreds of dolphins. It’s amazing to see them from the boat effortlessly slicing through the ocean water and doing their famous flip-jumps.

Due to the cold water we had to wear thick wetsuits that kept us relatively warm. Moreover snorkel, fins & mask were provided. Geared up with all this stuff we were dropped of by the skipper into a large dolphin school passing by. Once in the water you can easily attract dolphins for example by diving down and crossing their way, or simply by circling arround. Most dolphins are not shy and once you have got the attention of a dolphin it starts circling arround you – which can be interpreted as: Let’s play together. It’s really an overwhelming experience and definitely worth it! :-)

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New Zealand – Lazy seals in Kaikoura

On the coast of Kaikoura there are large seal colonies. We walked along the coast and saw many seals relaxing in the sun. Actually they didn’t do anything except sleeping and once in a while they went for a quick swim in the sea. Nice life..

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New Zealand – Sea kajaking in the Malborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds Maritime Park is famous for great hiking tracks as well as stunning kajaking tracks through many lovely fjords. For a change, we decided to explore this region on the water way and rented two sea-kajaks. Sea kajaking with those huge two-person-kajaks is pretty easy (compared white-water kajaking in those tiny kajaks we used with the Uni Canoeing Club in Fulljames). On our way through several fjords of the so called Queen Charlotte Sound we stopped at some lovely beaches for a sun bath and also met some lazy seals laying on the rocks.. Once more we camped overnight and returned on the next day. Not to forget the oncomming wind, that made it really impossible to paddle faster than 2 or 3km/h!